Calibration
Everything below is engine calibration — torque limiters, fuel, rail, VGT, smoke. Stage 1 is the daily answer. Stage 3 is a project.
136 PS · 320 Nm · 79 kW at wheels
Factory 100 kW / 320 Nm map. Torque arrives early and the engine is done by 4,200 rpm. A healthy stock car is the only safe place to start a remap.
Baseline
None from mapping. At 150k+ km the DMF, EGR and DPF are the wear items regardless.
Best on a light throttle. Short urban trips soot the DPF.
Engine hardware
Factory calibration. DPF and EGR as built.
172 PS · 375 Nm · 98 kW at wheels
The only remap most Mk2 2.0 TDCi cars should run. Sydney rolling-road example on a stock 100 kW car: 79 kW to 98 kW at the wheels (+24%) and 320 to 371 Nm at the engine. UK files often quote 180 PS / 375 Nm at the flywheel. Same job: more mid-range, same turbo, same clutch if it is healthy.
OBD remap, DPF and EGR left in. Typical AU shop.
Low if the engine is serviced and the clutch does not already slip. A tired DMF at high kilometres is the usual failure after the extra torque, not the pistons.
Cruise can be a touch better (less pedal). Driven hard, worse. DPF regen frequency rises if you live in short-trip traffic.
Engine hardware
Remap with factory DPF and EGR in place is the road-legal engine path in Australia. Disclose to your insurer. A large power jump can still need an engineering sign-off in some states — ask the tuner.
188 PS · 410 Nm · 108 kW at wheels
Stage 2 on this engine is an intercooler and a leak-free intake path, then a map that uses the colder air. The stock VGT still makes the power — you are not changing the turbo yet. Keep the DPF. Most of the extra feel is 1,800–3,200 rpm, which is where the Mk2 lives.
Remap + intercooler + intake + boost pipes. DPF stays.
Medium. Torque starts to bully a worn DMF. Boost leaks after pipe work will make it run rich and soot the filter. Log EGTs if you tow.
Similar to Stage 1 if you drive it the same. The extra hardware does not save fuel on its own.
Engine hardware
Road Stage 2 here means cooler intake air and freer flow with the DPF left in. A gutted DPF or EGR delete is not a road map in Australia.
220 PS · 460 Nm · 125 kW at wheels
Past the stock turbo. Makes sense for a dedicated car, not a 200k-km daily. You are buying a turbo, a clutch, injector work and a custom file. The 2.0 TDCi bottom end is tough; the driveline and the emissions kit are not.
Hybrid turbo, injectors, uprated clutch, custom dyno map.
High cost, high heat, high chance of clutch and turbo drama if it is cheap. Daily reliability drops. Not the value path.
Worse. Ignore the brochure. You bought peak torque.
Engine hardware
This is a modified engine. In NSW/ACT and most of Australia you should budget an engineer's report if the car stays registered. DPF delete is still not a road option.